Gas Systems in Campervans: What You Need to Know

Gas in campervans is one of those subjects that divides people. Some love the convenience and long runtimes of LPG, while others hate the idea of carrying pressurised fuel around and would rather go all-electric. Whichever side you fall on, the truth is that gas is still one of the most practical ways to run key systems in a van. But it comes with rules, standards, and a few design compromises that are worth understanding before you cut holes in your cupboards.

The Rules Around Gas in Campervans

In the UK (and across Europe), gas installations in campervans fall under BS EN 1949, the standard for LPG systems in leisure accommodation vehicles. The key points are:

• Copper or stainless steel for fixed pipework: long runs inside the van must be rigid metallic pipe. Rubber hoses aren’t allowed except for very short sections.
  
• Flexible hose only where needed: approved LPG hoses (date-stamped, usually with a 5-year life) are permitted between a bottle and regulator, or directly at an appliance where the manufacturer specifies it. They must never pass through walls or be used for long runs.
  
• Gas lockers or external tanks: bottles inside the van must sit in a sealed, ventilated locker with a drop vent to the outside. Underslung tanks don’t need a locker, but the pipework rules inside the van are the same.
  
• Ventilation and safety devices: drop vents, proper regulators, shut-off valves, and CO detectors are not optional extras, they’re part of a safe installation.
  
• Professional sign-off: if you want insurance cover or access to many campsites, you’ll need the system checked and certified by a Gas Safe engineer with the LPG/leisure vehicle qualification.

The exception: If you’re keeping your system simple and portable (i.e. it’s just a portable bottle leading to a non-fixed appliance such as a portable hob) the rules don’t apply. In this instance you may use a flexible hose leading to the hob and you don’t need a Gas Safe certificate. That’s classed as portable equipment, not a fixed installation. Think of it like carrying a camping stove in your car boot. If the hob is fixed into your kitchen unit, then it’s considered a fixed gas installation. Once it’s fixed, the rules of BS EN 1949 apply, and insurers, campsites, and ferry operators will usually expect it to be installed to standard and signed off by a Gas Safe engineer (with LPG/leisure vehicle qualification).

Insurance, resale, ferries and campsites

However, even if the law doesn’t force you to get a certificate for your own use, insurance companies often require evidence of a safe gas installation if they’re covering a campervan conversion. Likewise, if you ever want to sell the van, a Gas Safe certificate can be a big reassurance to the buyer. Furthermore, some ferry companies and campsites in the UK and Europe may ask if your gas system is certified. They’re looking for assurance that your installation isn’t a safety risk to other people.

Gas Lines: Copper vs Rubber Hose

This is where most DIY builds go wrong.

• The rubber hose has a place, but only a short one. You can use it:
  
  • From the bottle to the regulator.
    
  • From the regulator to an appliance, if the appliance requires it.
    
  • It must be LPG-rated, date-stamped, and replaced within its lifespan.
    
• Copper or stainless pipe must be used for everything else. Fixed hobs, ovens, and heaters all count as “fixed installations,” so they need rigid lines. These should be properly clipped, protected where they pass through panels, and connected with compression fittings (not soldered).

It doesn’t matter whether you’re running a single hob or a full gas heating system—if it’s permanent, it should be copper.

Internal Bottles vs Underslung Tanks

There are two main ways to carry LPG in a van:

• Bottles in a gas locker: common, simple, relatively cheap. A 6 kg or 11 kg bottle sits in a sealed locker with a drop vent in the floor. Easy to swap or refill, but it eats up interior storage.
  
• Underslung tanks: bolted beneath the van, with a refill point on the outside. These free up interior space and look neater, but they’re more expensive to fit.

The important thing is that both require the same rules once the pipework comes into the living space. An underslung tank doesn’t mean you can suddenly run a flexible hose inside. It just moves the storage point outside and simplifies refilling.

Safety First

Gas has its own risks, so safety is non-negotiable:

• Install a carbon monoxide detector.
• Ventilate properly (drop vents in lockers, openable vents in the habitation area).
• Use the right regulators, shut-off valves, and fittings.
• Clip and protect every length of pipe.
• Don’t ignore date stamps on hoses, you must replace them when required.

Most importantly, if you’re not qualified, have a Gas Safe engineer check your work before you start using the system. A CO leak or gas build-up in a small van is not something you want to gamble with.

Appliances That Can Run on Gas

One of the reasons LPG is still so common in campervans is that it can feed multiple systems:

• Hot water: many boilers are gas-powered. (We cover this in more detail in another blog.)
• Heating: heaters can run on LPG. (Also covered separately in our heating guide.)
• Cooking: Hobs, ovens, and grills are widely available in gas versions designed specifically for vans.

Let’s take a closer look at cooking, because this is where the gas vs electric debate continues.

Cooking in a Campervan: Gas vs Electric

Like with hot water systems and heating, you often have the choice between using gas or electric, and the arguments are much the same. Let’s remind ourselves of the pros and cons of each.

Gas Cooking

Gas hobs are the traditional choice. They’re cheap, reliable, and sip fuel slowly. A 6 kg bottle can last months even if you cook daily. Gas ovens are widely available for campervans, letting you roast, bake, or grill without draining your batteries.

Electric Cooking

Induction hobs look sleek and avoid the need for bottles, but they draw serious power. A single ring typically pulls 1,500–2,000 watts. On a 12 V system, that’s over 150 amps. Two rings at once can draw more current than your fridge uses in an entire day. Electric ovens are possible but even more demanding, requiring very large inverters and battery banks.

Situational Comparison

Imagine two vans parked up for a week off-grid:

• The gas van cooks two meals a day, runs a gas water heater, and uses a gas heater in the evenings. After a week, the bottle is still going strong, and the small solar panel has no trouble keeping the batteries topped up for lights and sockets.
  
• The electric van cooks the same meals and heats water with electric. After three days, the batteries are running low, and cooking becomes a balancing act between keeping the fridge cold and boiling pasta. Without sun or a campsite hookup, they’ll need to move just to recharge.

Running Costs

• Gas fuel is cheap, especially with refillables.
• Electric fuel is free from solar but requires a massive upfront investment in lithium batteries, solar panels, inverters, and alternator chargers.

Appliance Costs

• Gas hob: a two-burner unit might cost under £100. A full oven/hob combo is closer to £300.
• Induction hob: the hob itself might be £50–£150, but the electrical system to support it can run into the thousands.

Safety

• Gas comes with fire and CO risks.
• Electric comes with risks of overloading, overheating cables, and battery abuse.
• Both require careful design and installation.

Our Products and Bundles

At The Campervan Shop, we have a range of products to suit all your needs, but if the gas system is beginning to feel a little complicated, perhaps our phased bundle system could be the perfect option for you. 

Find out more on our website.

Conclusion

Gas systems in campervans aren’t glamorous, but they’re practical. The rules are strict for a reason, and once you design within them (copper lines, sealed lockers, detectors) you end up with a safe, long-lasting energy source that can power heating, hot water, and cooking for weeks at a time. The gas vs electric cooking debate isn’t about the cost of a hob, it’s about how you want your whole energy system to work. Gas spreads the load across two fuels, making life easier when you’re off-grid. Electric piles all demand on one system, which can be great if you spend most of your time on hook-ups or invest heavily in batteries and solar. Either way, understanding the rules and building with safety in mind is the first step. Once you’ve got that sorted, you can decide whether the smell of gas and the click of a piezo igniter, or the hum of an induction plate, suits your style of vanlife best.