Water might seem simple, but in a campervan it’s one of the trickiest systems to get right. From the sink you wash up in, to the tap that controls your flow, to the pump that keeps everything moving, each part has to work in sync within a small, mobile space. This blog breaks down how sinks, taps, and pumps fit together in a campervan kitchen, and what to think about before you start plumbing.
Kitchen Sink – Size and Material
- Space vs usability: Go as large as your counter allows. A deep but compact sink is often better than a wide shallow one because it’s easier to wash up without splashing.
- Material: Stainless steel is the go-to — lightweight, easy to clean, and durable. Some people opt for enamel or composite sinks for a homier feel, but they’re heavier and can chip.
- Lids and covers: Many van sinks come with a glass lid so you can reclaim counter space when not in use. If your hob sits beside your sink, look for a combination unit with a shared glass lid.
Taps: Manual, Micro-Switched, or Standard Mixer
- Manual taps (hand or foot pump): Simple, reliable, and ideal for basic builds with no electrical system. You pump water mechanically, so there’s no wiring, no failure points. You can buy this as a complete system or buy a foot pump and pair it with a single-feed manual tap. This setup is for cold water only.
- Micro-switched campervan mixer taps: The switch is built into the tap handle. When you turn the tap on, it completes a 12V electrical circuit, turning the pump on. When you close the tap, the circuit breaks, and the pump stops. This setup is used with submersible pumps (the kind that sit inside the water tank).
- Standard (no micro-switch) campervan mixer taps: If you’re running a pressurised 12V pump, you can use a standard campervan mixer tap. The switch is built into the pump itself, not the tap. The pump monitors water pressure in the pipes. When you open a tap, the pressure drops, and the pump automatically turns on. When you close the tap, the pressure builds up again, and the pump shuts off. A campervan mixer tap works much like a household tap, but it’s built specifically for campervans and 12V campervan systems (it’s smaller, lighter, and designed for low-pressure water setups, with 10–12 mm hose connections instead of standard plumbing threads). Household mixer taps are heavier, made for high mains pressure, and use larger threaded fittings.
But could I use a standard household mixer tap if I wanted?
The answer is yes, people often choose to use standard household mixer taps in a campervan as long as they’re using a good 12V pressure pump system, which provides enough consistent pressure (around 1–2.8 bar) for the tap’s internal valves to operate. It won’t work properly with a foot pump, gravity feed, or basic submersible setup, because those systems don’t generate enough pressure for the tap to flow as intended.
Tip: If you’re running hot water, make sure your tap is designed for it. Some cheaper caravan taps aren’t rated for hot water and can deform or leak.
Our recommendation:
Comet Roma 12V Micro Switch Hot Cold Mixer Tap | The Campervan Shop
Pumps: Choosing the Right Type
So, we’ve touched on pumps, but here’s a summary of the information:
Submersible pump
- Sits inside the water tank.
- Cheap, quiet, simple.
- Works best with micro-switched taps.
- Not ideal for higher flow or long pipe runs.
Pressure (diaphragm) pump
- Mounted externally in-line on the cold-water feed.
- Has a built-in pressure switch that turns it on/off automatically when a tap opens or closes.
- Better for systems with multiple outlets or a water heater.
- Louder and uses more power but far more robust.
Size matters:
Submersible pumps
These sit inside your freshwater tank and are usually small and low-power. They’re measured in litres per minute (L/min) — common sizes are 7 L/min, 10 L/min, or 15 L/min. They’re great for a single tap or a small sink setup, but they don’t produce much pressure (usually under 1 bar).
Pressure pumps
Mounted externally, these are stronger and come in lots of sizes, usually 7–11 L/min flow and 1–3 bar pressure. A small 7 L/min, 1.4 bar model is fine for one sink. A mid-range 10 L/min, 2.1 bar pump suits a sink plus a shower. A high-flow 11 L/min, 2.8 bar pump handles multiple outlets or systems with a water heater.
Electrical draw:
Bigger pumps use more power. A 7 L/min pump might draw 3–4 amps, while an 11 L/min pump could draw 7–10 amps. You’ll want to match your wiring and fuse size accordingly.
Plumbing Layout and Hose Size
- Hose diameter: Most van sinks use 10–12 mm flexible hose. If you’re using a pressure pump, check the manufacturer’s recommendations for inlet/outlet hose size.
- Push-fit fittings make life easy because they’re secure, reusable, and widely available for food-grade plastic pipe.
- Check flow direction on pumps and filters. It’s an easy mistake during installation.
- Don’t forget drain hoses: the sink’s waste line should run downhill to your grey tank, with no sags where water can sit and smell.
Tanks and Venting
- We’ve mentioned tanks before, so hopefully by now you know you’ll need a freshwater tank and a waste (grey) tank (size dependent on your needs).
- Keep them close together to minimise plumbing runs.
- The waste tank should be vented to avoid airlocks and slow draining.
- Fit a simple plug and trap under the sink to stop odours backing up.
Water Heating Integration
If you plan to add hot water later (via a gas or electric boiler), design your plumbing with that in mind:
- Run both cold and hot supply lines to the sink.
- Choose a mixer tap so you don’t have to replace it later.
- Leave space for the heater and easy access to plumbing connections.
Winter and Maintenance Considerations
- Drain your water system before winter to prevent freezing damage.
- Use food-grade hose only, not garden hose.
- Fit quick-connects or accessible joints so you can service or replace the pump easily.
Aesthetic and Practical Touches
- Undermount sinks look cleaner but are harder to seal. Top-mount is more forgiving.
- Add a splashback panel or tiled wall behind the sink to protect your cladding.
- Consider where your grey tank will drain. It’ll likely be under the van (with a valve) or a removable tank inside for easy emptying.
Summary
Getting your campervan’s sink, tap, and pump setup right makes everyday life on the road easier and more reliable. Once you understand how each part works together, you can design a system that fits your space, your power setup, and the way you travel — whether that’s a simple hand-pump sink or a full pressurised kitchen system.
