The Thetford toilet model C223-CS with a toilet bowl that revolves 180 degrees on the base and locks into place by simply pressing down on the seat is made of light plastic material with an electric flush system, measures only 534 x 394 x 580 mm with a sitting height of 492 mm and net weight of 7,2 kg. To easily remove the 18-liter waste tank, you can install the Service Door Model 3. The Door is made of plastic material, it’s water-resistant, UV-resistant and with the push-lock, you can easily open and close the Door.

Thetford Service Door Model 3

When installing the door vertically, the manufacturer advises that the door frame hinges face the driving direction.

First off, check the minimum available space for the door. For the door to be above the black plastic sidebar, you may have to raise the shower tray on which the toilet and the waste tank will be standing.

The manufacturer supplies all paper templates for the cutouts of the vehicle wall. Just cut them out, draw the outlines and drill the holes. To ensure that the car paint is not scratched, use protective tape before drilling and sawing.

The cutout wall panel will be the door panel, so you should only saw in the indicated places, especially so you can keep any decorative stripes on the final piece for the door panel.

And then there’s quite a big hole in the vehicle wall!  Now you can check if the plastic frame fits and then remove the tape.

Another template is for the cutout panel – the door panel. Now you really have to focus on the right position so the color or any decorative straps on the panel will match and align the ones on the vehicle. To prevent any scratches, use some tape and draw the outlines.

To properly install the panel, the wall thickness of the camper must be between 23 and 39 mm, this is usually the case with “regular“ Campervans and Mobile homes that are sandwich constructed. Because the wall of the Sprinter is not this thick, you can build a wooden frame of Multiplex to thicken the vehicle wall for the door installation. In order for the door panel to have the same thickness as the thickened wall, you can thicken the door panel with wood. 

Glue the wooden frame to the cutout hole of the vehicle wall with Sikaflex and fasten it with clamps until it is dry. The wooden frame has to be fixed and the glue dried completely before installing the plastic frame of the service door to prevent the pull of the screws from pushing in the metal. You can prevent this from happening by installing the wooden frame first and then the plastic frame.

Use sealant on the door panel to make it waterproof before placing the brackets on the inner side of the door, applying sealant in the groove of the outer side of the door, and then fitting the door panel in the outer side of the door frame.

The last step is to fill the groove of the outer frame with sealant before screwing the outer frame to the outside wall of the vehicle. The inner side of the frame then connects to the inside of the vehicle, in this case the wooden frame, with small screws.

Cassette Toilets Explained: What They Are and How They Work

Campervans come in many shapes, sizes, and price ranges. But the great equalizer among them all is the trip to the dump station to empty the waste tanks. That is unless you use cassette toilets. With these updated commodes in your Campervan, you might be able to skip the hassle and long lines of a dump station altogether! Read on to learn more…

What Is a Cassette Toilet?

Traditionally, a campervan toilet flushes down into the black tank secured to your campervan’s underbody. When your black tank is full, you empty the contents at a dump station. 

When using a cassette toilet, instead of the waste going into your black tank, it enters a small, portable waste tank. You can remove this waste tank, which rolls on wheels like a suitcase, and dump it at a public restroom or dump station.

How Does It Work? 

The concept of a cassette toilet is similar to a portable one, but it’s permanently affixed to your camper. On the surface, it looks and acts much like a normal toilet. You’ll do your business, flush, and walk away. The actual difference is in the holding tank size and how you dump it.

How Do You Dump a Cassette Toilet?

Most tanks for your cassette toilet have a sensor that tells you when it reaches capacity. At that point, it’s time to empty it. You’ll have to do this much more often than you would a black tank, but it’s usually more convenient to do so. 

After you’ve emptied the toilet bowl and turned the valve blade handle to closed, you’re ready to empty the holding tank. Typically, there will be a side access panel on the exterior of your camper where you can slide it out. 

Most have a handle and rollers so that you can pull it behind you to the bathroom or dump station. If yours doesn’t, and you have to carry it, make sure you empty it before it gets too heavy! 

When you’re ready to release the contents, open the dump spout on the tank and place it over the toilet or dump hole. Then, let gravity do its work. If you’re at a dump station, just let the waste flow. But if you’re using a regular toilet facility, you might flush two or three times during the process to prevent clogs or overflows. 

Many portable tanks have a pressure release button that essentially helps push the waste out of the spout. Once you’ve lowered the spout into the hole or toilet, you can press this button to release the pressure–be very careful not to bump it before, or you’ll have a mess! 

When all the waste has left the building, it’s time to clean it out. Pour some water into the tank and shake or swish it before emptying it again. You’ll probably have to do this several times to get it fully clean, so wait until the water runs clear before replacing the tank. Also, this is a good time to add a tank cleaner. 

Difference Between a Cassette Toilet and a Portable Camping Toilet

The primary difference between the two is that the cassette toilet isn’t really portable. It simply has a portable waste tank. It’s affixed to your camper, so you can’t take it anywhere you want. 

A portable camping toilet, on the other hand, is mobile in every sense of the word. You can take it pretty much anywhere you can carry it. When it’s time to empty a portable toilet, you’ll typically remove the toilet seat and take the bottom to the restroom or dump station to empty it. 

The dry flush toilet is another completely portable option that uses a bag-like liner to collect waste. When the bag is full, it gets removed and tossed in the trash. The other difference here is that the cassette toilet uses water to flush, while portable toilet options like the dry flush are waterless.

Benefits of Cassette Toilets

The number one benefit of cassette toilets is their size. Many small campervans would not have toilets if it weren’t for this option. 

The second reason that campervan-ers might want this commode is its portability. If you like camping off the grid, you don’t need to be near a dump station to empty it. You can drive it to the nearest restroom and empty it, freeing you to go wherever you wish. Plus, it only takes a few minutes. 

Cassette Toilet Use and Maintenance Tips 

To keep your toilet in tip-top condition, dump it frequently. If you’re traveling by yourself, dump it at least every four or five days and every two or three days if you’re with a group. You might find that you need to empty it sooner because it’s too heavy. 

Cleaning your tank is as simple as pouring about half a cup of distilled white vinegar in there with some water after you empty it. Swishing that solution around regularly will reduce your chemical usage. 

Clean your toilet regularly to avoid odors as well, and keep your bathroom clean by closing the lid before you “flush it” or open the valve blade.

These things might seem inconvenient in the moment, but doing them every time will keep your small throne functioning and reduce mishaps. Your toilet is the very last thing you want to malfunction when you’re boondocking in the middle of nowhere. 

STEP by STEP guide to Carpet Lining your Campervan – Arches to Roof !

Firstly, lets go over the materials you need to carpet line your van.


Here’s what you need:

1: Insulate the metal panels of the van and cover holes using strong duct or foil tape.

2: Fill the metal pillars with spray foam or fiberglass insulation. This will stop any cold bridging between the outside and inside and should help avoid damp spots.

** Option to install Plywood on to the insulation layer to make for a smoother carpet finish and achieve a better level of insulation. **

3: Spray glue the carpet lining and the bare metal with a generous layer of glue. Hold the carpet in place for about 30 seconds until the glue has set and begin to work the carpet into place by stretching across curves and working into corners.

4: You need to shape the carpet liner around the joints between panels and pillars,

If you plan on living in the van for an extended period, a warmer van is most definitely preferable!

Door Frame

1: Cutting the Felt / Carpet to size.

Start on a small panel to find your bearings – a good place to start is the back door.

Cut your carpet liner about 4 inches larger all around the door frame.
Once the liner is cut, rest the liner down on the floor or on a sheet of plywood.
The backside of the carpet liner is slightly harder and less fluffy!
Make sure it is facing backside up when placed on the floor.

2: Applying glue to your carpet liner.

Spray the back of the felt with a light layer of spray glue.
Use a smooth consistent back and over movement.
Overlap the spray slightly every time.

Now move on to the panel.
Spray the contact areas of the panel with a generous coating of spray glue using the same method of application.

3: Placing the carpet liner on the panel.

Start at the top of the panel.
Lift the liner up off the ground and let it hang freely.

Now press the liner against the top of the panel.
Hold in position for 30 seconds so that the glue begins to set slightly.

Once the liner is hanging on the panel with the glue,
Begin to rub the liner onto the panel from top to bottom, working your hand around the material to get rid of any wrinkles.

You can stretch the material and mold it around corners, always rubbing with your hand to fix the liner.

4: Cutting off excess carpet liner.

After the carpet is fixed correctly and all adjustments have been made, it’s time to remove the excess carpet liner.

Use a sharp Stanley blade to score the felt inside the edge of the door panel.
Make sure to leave a metal surface where the rubber door seal meets the door because the carpet will cause the seal to leak.

Repeat the same process on the larger panels.
For the larger panels you will not be able to spray the whole sheet of carpet before fitting it to the wall, you will have to hang the carpet at the top first.

Then spray glue each piece underneath while working it onto the wall of the van.

It is a tricky process, and you will need help if this is your first time.

Carpet lining a van with removeable panels.

1: Remove all the hardboard panels from the interior of the van.

2: Remove all the plastic fittings and screws.

3: Measure and cut the liner, leave 2 inches of excess liner around the edges.

4: Spray the surface of the panel with a generous covering of glue.

5: Spray the back of the liner with a light covering of glue.

6: Fit the felt liner to the hardboard panel and work it on with a smooth rubbing motion – work all the wrinkles out by rubbing, and stretching at the same time.

7: Fold the excess around the back of the panel and glue in place.

8: Punch a hole in through every fixing point.

Metal Frames

Carpet lining the metal frames around the panels of your van:

1: Make sure you have all your insulation and wiring complete – you will not be able to access behind the pillars or through the access holes once the carpet is fitted.

2: Start at the top and work down – cut a strip for the top section, leaving enough to overlap the edges into the removable panel sections.

3: Spray a generous layer onto the metal.

4: Spray a light layer onto the back of the felt.

5: Stick one end to the metal surface and work your way along the liner to the other end.

6: Go over the felt again, stretch out the material to work out any wrinkles.

The Roof

Carpet lining the roof of your van.

Carpet lining a campervan roof is a little harder, so you will need some help with this one!

1: Cut the liner with enough excess to allow for error and edging correctly.

2: Spray the ceiling with a generous layer of glue before fitting.

3: Start at the front end of the van and spray a light layer of glue to the back of the felt about 4″ wide.

4: Fix the front edge of the felt to the ceiling, holding it in place until it is set.

5: Now begin to work your way back along the ceiling – apply some glue to the back of the liner each time before you apply the liner.

6: Work the wrinkles out by stretching and rubbing at the same time.

Wheel Arches

How to carpet a wheel arch of your van.

1: When carpet lining a wheel arch, start in the middle and work your out – cut the liner leaving enough excess to allow for good coverage and folding under the panels.

2: Spray a generous layer of glue to the wheel arch first.

3: Spray a light layer on the back of the liner.

4: Work the liner into the crease in the center of the wheel arch.

5: Now start to rub from the center outwards, making sure you fix the carpet to the arch everywhere.

Remember, you can stretch the carpet to suit.

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